Gibson factory set-up specs.

Discussion in 'ES-sential Hollowbodies' started by Davomite, Feb 18, 2009.

  1. Davomite

    Davomite New Member

    I posted this in another thread, and just thought I'd make it easier to find. Plus I can't sleep so enjoy ...

    Hi I'm David the final inspector at Gibson Memphis. I can give you the factory spec info. on our setups. You will need a mechanics rule to do this properly.

    To check neck relief: fret the low E at the first and 15th fret (not 12th) reach to the 7th fret and tap string. There should be a small space between string and fret - no thicker than a piece of paper. Do the same with the high E.
    ACTION: fret low E at first fret and measure the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the 15th fret. It should be 5/64". Do the same with the high E, measurement should be 3/64". Now measure the string height at the nut; underside of the string to the top of the fret. Low E and A should measure 2/64", D and G =1.5/64" and B and high E = 1/64". If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. Measurement for low and high E's should be the same as measurement taken at the 15th.

    Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Bridge pickup should be 3/64", neck pickup should be 4/32". Fret high E at 22nd fret, distance for both pickups should be 3/32".

    Play test: Play every string at every fret checking for buzzes. Bend High E string 1 and 1/2 steps, beginning at the sixth fret and ending at 22nd, checking for "choking" and to make sure string stays in nut notch.
  2. charliechitlins

    charliechitlins New Member

  3. MatthewStreet

    MatthewStreet New Member

    Dave ,you were the first to mention the the 59 335 coming out ,but what is the difference between the 50 anniversary 58 model and the 59 model ?
  4. anfontan

    anfontan New Member

    Great info there Dave, I'll use that on my old 'Paul'-it's needing a setup soon anyway! Is this the same rule of thumb on the Epi's as well?
  5. tazzboy

    tazzboy New Member

    Yes that is good if want to do it yourself.
  6. 64sg

    64sg New Member

    Thanks for the info Dave. I have another set up question. What is the approximate string break angle over the saddles on an SG with a Maestro vibrola? The reason I ask is the former owner of my SG installed a Bigsby on my guitar. He chose the wrong model and the break angle is very shallow. I have been considering how to increase the angle if that might improve the tone and sustain.
  7. risg

    risg New Member

    Factory Specifications for a '72 Les Paul Bass

    Is there any way to obtain the setup specification for the ’72 Les Paul Bass? The link below is to the model I have.

    1972 Les Paul Bass

    I’m interested in the factory spec for the:
    • Neck relief and whether the 7th fret space is based on the 1st and 12th fret or the 1st and 15th fret.
    • Saddle height by string (two-point Tune-O-Matic bridge) I’m looking at the individual saddles and it appears these may have been switched. They are setup in an arch with the G and E lower than the D and A. My understanding is that the saddles should get progressively higher going from G to E.
    • Action (height of strings at various frets)
    • String to pickup height.

    Also, is there a wiring diagram for the electronics?
  8. Malikon

    Malikon New Member

    I suppose you need a capo on the first fret? Or three arms?
  9. risg

    risg New Member

    thanks, but your post sounds like the setup for a Guitar. I'm looking for the same information on a Les Paul Bass
  10. Rick Winfield

    Rick Winfield New Member

    Good to know you're "here", Davomite
    thanks for the "professional" info
  11. discofishing

    discofishing New Member


    Out of curiosity, after a hard days work how many guitars have you usually inspected? What else is checked out during final inspection? Do you think there could be any improvements made in this area?
  12. Captain Bb

    Captain Bb New Member

    I guess Davomite didn't want to put his head in the lion's den again.
  13. craigh

    craigh New Member

    This is great info. Now all I need to do is to get in the mood to actually work on my guitars instead of playing them.

  14. discofishing

    discofishing New Member

    Is there another thread where Davomite discussed what he does?
  15. Captain Bb

    Captain Bb New Member

    I've not seen one.
  16. Billy C

    Billy C Active Member

    Thanks Davomite. This is a great help...........
  17. moparguy

    moparguy New Member

    Thanks Davomite, thats awesome, I think i may need the nut on mine worked on, when I play something like an a or a d it sounds sharp, maybe Im doin the death grip on making it sharp, Ill have to get a ruler like that and see. Mine is new so maybe Guitar Center will fix it
  18. charliechitlins

    charliechitlins New Member

    If your nut hasn't been set up, it needs it.
    Fret a note at the first fret.
    Notice the distance by which the string clears the 2nd fret.
    That's all the clearance you need between the open string and the first fret.
    Your nut slots are likely too high and that will definitely put those cowboy chords out of tune.
  19. cyprussid

    cyprussid New Member

    hi guys just bought a swingster royale and followed Davids (Davomite) specs
    to set up the action but using a capo on the 1st fret and settin bass E to5/64
    (.07 and high E to 3/64 (.046) with the capo still on the 1st fret i had buzz on all strings all frets raysing the bridge slightly removed the buzz from bass E and A and slightly more from D B and E strings but not the G i have now raised the bridge considerably more and with a gap of 4.6/64 (.070) i still have buzz on the 3rd G string from 1st to 17 fret checking the neck relief as dave describes there is small gap from fret top to string st 7th anyone have any suggestions please
  20. bluzfish

    bluzfish New Member

    Hi everyone. I just joined this forum and I'm hoping to have a stupid question answered by someone with knowledge and experience. I purchased a beautiful ES 330 VOS to 1959 specs in cherry stain/clear nitro with trapeze tailpiece. Since day one, I have had an issue with a warped neck. The store I bought it from keeps doing a setup that I am not happy with (I also have another identical one that I set up myself that is perfect).

    Here is my question - when I take off the strings and loosen the truss rod, there is a pronounced forward bow in the neck and a hump at the point that the neck joins the body. I think it is a problem but the store keeps sloughing it off and yarding down on the truss rod to straighten the neck and giving it back to me "fixed". Am I asking too much for the neck to start out straight with no string tension or truss rod adjustment?

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